5.14d First Ascents for Ondra and McClure

posted by dpm on 05/30/2013


Earlier this week, Petr Pavlíček reported  on Facebook that he and Adam Ondra were back at the Flatanger Cave in Norway and that Adam had established a new 9a/5.14d route. Last year, Adam spent some time in Norway and was able to establish the world's first 5.15c route, Change, in the incredible Flatanger Cave. This year, according to Pavlíček , he's already bolted and sent four new routes: a 5.13b, 5.14a, 5.14c, and finally his new route Illusionist (5.14d.)

Regarding the route, Petr stated on Facebook, "It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you cannot see." He went on to say, "But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects."

Adam Ondra on his new route Ilusionist at the Flatanger Cave in Norway. Photo: Petr Pavlíček

In the UK, Steve McClure has added a new ninth grade route to his impressive collection of first ascents at Malhalm Cove, in Yorkshire. McClure's new route starts on Bat Route (5.14b) and then climbs a new section of 5.14c before rejoining Bat Route at the top. Though uncertain on the grade, he believes it to be in the 5.14d/5.15a range. Interestingly, McClure was originally calling it the "Cop Out Project" as he was using the relatively easier start of Bat Route to gain the new climbing. A harder start to the same line is still unsent, a future project he's referring to as "The Easy Easy Project." McClure was barely able to sneak in his ascent before warm temperatures and moisture would have nabbed all hopes of a send. He has a few great blog posts on the process of sending his project that you can start reading here and click through to the next ones for the whole story.   

Steve McClure on Batman (5.14d/15a). Photo: Tim Glasby/Steve's Blog