5.14d's for Bouin and Ghisolfi

posted by dpm on 06/10/2013


At Margalef, Spain, Sebastien Bouin has claimed the 4th ascent of Perez Victimas (5.14d), a route bolted by Chris Sharma and previously sent by Ramon Julian, Enzo Oddo, and Iker Pou. Last month, Bouin pulled off the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma's Tierra Negra (5.14d/15a) and also did Coma san Pere (5.14c) on his 2nd try and Politicamente Corruptos (5.14c/d) on his 5th try.

Sebastien Bouin on Perez Victimas at Margalef, Spain. Photo: Kairn.com

20-year-old Italian Stefano Ghisolfi has sent his first 5.14d at Tetto di Sarre, Italy. The route Ground Zero has some interesting history. Ghisolfi writes on his 8a scorecard:

Finally my first 9a! 12 attempts after 3 days. This route has a strange story: it was to be called "l'odio", but Alberto Gnerro did the FA on 11/09/2002, one year after the breakdown of the twin tower, so he called it Ground Zero. After the ascent of Christian Bindhammer, who clipped the chain before the top, the chain was removed, adding a jump to the end of the roof and an easy traverse to the chain of another route. After some attempts falling at 3/4 of the routes, I did it. Maybe I'm the youngest Italian who did this grade, but I know many strong guys who can beat this record soon. :-)

sources: upclimbing, kairn, 8a