posted by dpm on 06/12/2013
Joe Kinder has some funny, and oddly inspirational, thoughts on his latest new route in Rifle, Colorado. After a ton of effort, what started out as a dirty pile of overhanging rotten rock at the left end of the Wicked Cave, turned into a pretty cool-looking route called Garbage Pail Kids. Joe writes on his blog:
I bolted this dirty bastard 2 years ago. There was a reason it sat for two years and the reason (is that it's) utter choss. The line was almost a joke to me when I started putting the bolts in. It felt I was biting off way more than I could possibly chew (in terms of cleaning). TWO YEARS!!!!!! I cleaned it 5 different days which includes glue, banging rotten stone off, and even brooming down the wall of cobwebs and dust. I mean… it’s trash!!! It’s GARBAGE!!!
After some sessions figuring out the moves with a patient belayer, moving bolts, and hammering off enormous chunks of garbage rock it finally looked like a pathway up the wall… and actually quite attractive if you ask me. The turd became a polished turd and the climbing turned out to be fu**ing AWESOME!!!!!!!
It all paid off in the end after Joe figured out some insane, feet-cutting, crossover dyno beta and clipped the chains on the appropriately named Garbage Pail Kids (5.14 something). Next up for Kinder...trad climbing?
Read the whole story and check out some more pictures by Mike Bockino at Joekindkid.com. It might psyche you up to find your own turd to polish.